Below are the most common causes and step-by-step fixes, arranged from simplest to most technical.
For more information check out Stop Skipped Stitches for Good
?? 1.
Needle Issues
Symptoms: Skipped stitches start suddenly or happen in specific spots.
? Fixes:
- Replace the needle ? even if it looks fine. Knits dull needles fast.
- Switch to a Stretch needle (Schmetz 75/11 or 90/14 Stretch) if using spandex, Lycra, or athletic knits.
- Try a Ballpoint needle (Jersey) for cotton knits and interlocks.
- Make sure the needle is fully inserted and tightened ? a loose needle is a silent culprit.
? 2.
Thread Problems
Symptoms: Thread breaks or skips intermittently, tension seems uneven.
? Fixes:
- Use 100% polyester or all-purpose thread, not cotton.
- If sewing very stretchy fabric (like swimwear), use wooly nylon or textured polyester in the bobbin or serger looper.
- Re-thread the machine completely ? skipped stitches often mean the thread jumped out of a tension disc.
- Check thread path for snags, burrs, or lint buildup.
?? 3.
Stitch Settings
Symptoms: Flat, tight, or uneven stitches that pop when stretched.
? Fixes:
- Use a lightning bolt/stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag (width 0.5?1.0 mm, length 2.5?3 mm).
- Avoid straight stitch unless using a stretch straight stitch (on some machines).
- Slightly loosen upper tension (reduce by 0.5?1 setting).
- Test on a fabric scrap ? if the seam pops, widen the zigzag or use a stretchier stitch.
? 4.
Fabric Handling
Symptoms: Fabric waves, stretches, or feeds unevenly.
? Fixes:
- Use a walking foot or dual-feed foot to keep layers even.
- Reduce presser foot pressure slightly (on many machines, a setting around ?2? instead of ?4? works better).
- Don?t pull the fabric front or back ? let the feed dogs do the work.
- Support fabric weight to prevent drag from the table edge.
? 5.
Stabilizing the Fabric
Symptoms: Thin or stretchy fabric gets ?chewed up? or shifts under the needle.
? Fixes:
- Place a strip of wash-away stabilizer, tissue paper, or tear-away backing under the seam.
- Use clear elastic or stay tape in seams like shoulders or necklines to stabilize stretch-prone areas.
? 6.
Machine Maintenance
Symptoms: Inconsistent stitches, skipping that seems random.
? Fixes:
- Clean out lint from the bobbin area, feed dogs, and needle plate ? knits shed fibers fast.
- Check for burrs or rough spots on the needle plate or hook. Polish lightly with fine sandpaper or replace the part.
- Oil your machine (if recommended by manufacturer).
- Have timing checked if the needle just barely misses the hook ? this can cause chronic skipped stitches.
? 7.
Advanced Solutions
If all else fails:
- Try stretch thread in the top (e.g., Eloflex, Seraflex).
- Use a serger or coverstitch machine if your project involves highly elastic fabrics.
- Test sewing in a different direction (some knits stretch more crosswise than lengthwise).
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