When you?re sewing for clients or building your handmade brand, quality and consistency matter. Skipped stitches on knits can ruin an otherwise perfect project ? but they?re completely preventable. In this guide, we?ll break down proven methods to master stretch fabrics, from needle choice and thread type to machine settings and stabilizing techniques. Whether you?re creating custom apparel or growing a sewing business, these tips will help you produce clean, reliable seams every time.

1. Use the Right Needle

Skipped stitches are often caused by the wrong type or dull needles.

• Ballpoint (Jersey) needle: For regular knit fabrics. The rounded tip slides between fibers instead of piercing them.
• Stretch needle: Best for fabrics with high elasticity (spandex, Lycra, swimwear, athletic wear). The eye and scarf are designed to prevent skipped stitches.
• Recommended sizes:

1. Lightweight knits: 70/10
2. Medium-weight: 75/11 or 80/12
3. Heavy/stretch denim: 90/14

? Replace your needle every 6?8 hours of sewing or at the first sign of skipped stitches.

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2. Use the Correct Thread

• Polyester thread has built-in stretch and strength, ideal for knits.
• Avoid cotton thread, which can snap when the fabric stretches.
• For extra elasticity (like in activewear), use wooly nylon or textured polyester in the bobbin or serger looper.

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3. Adjust Stitch Type and Length

• Zigzag stitch: Classic for stretch seams.

1. Width: 0.5?1.0 mm
2. Length: 2.5?3.0 mm

• Lightning bolt/stretch stitch: Best for seams that will stretch a lot.
• Twin needle: Great for hemming knits ? gives a professional look with built-in stretch.

1. Use a stretch twin needle and wooly nylon in the bobbin for the best results.

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4. Use the Right Presser Foot and Feed

• Walking foot (even feed foot): Feeds top and bottom layers evenly, preventing stretching and puckering.
• Knit foot or Teflon foot: Helps the fabric glide smoothly without sticking or stretching.
• Adjust presser foot pressure: Too much pressure stretches knits and can cause skipped stitches. Reduce it slightly if your machine allows.

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5. Stabilize When Needed

For lightweight or very stretchy knits:

• Use wash-away stabilizer or tissue paper under the seam while sewing.
• Use clear elastic or stay tape in shoulder seams and necklines to prevent stretching out of shape.

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6. Proper Handling Technique

• Don?t pull or stretch the fabric while sewing ? let the feed dogs do the work.
• Support the fabric on both sides of the machine to prevent drag.
• Sew with minimal tension ? just guide it gently.

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7. Machine Maintenance and Settings

• Clean lint regularly (knits shed fibers that can interfere with stitch formation).
• Re-thread both upper and bobbin threads if skipped stitches begin.
• Slightly loosen the upper tension if the thread looks tight or if stitches skip.

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8. Consider a Serger or Coverstitch Machine

• A serger (overlocker) naturally handles stretch fabrics well, giving stretchy seams without skipped stitches.
• A coverstitch machine gives professional hems with perfect stretch recovery.

Once you understand why skipped stitches happen, the real magic is in prevention. The good news is, most solutions come down to using the correct materials and settings.

Before your next project, take a moment to check your toolkit ? a quality needle, a good stabilizer, and the right thread can completely transform your sewing experience.

Below, you?ll find recommended tools and supplies that make sewing knits easier, cleaner, and more reliable ? plus a troubleshooting guide with a printable PDF to keep by your machine for quick reference.

• Stretch Needles
• Ballpoint Needles
• Stabilizers for Stretch Fabrics
• Tissue Paper
• Stay Tape
• Walking Feet
• Specialty Knit Presser Foot

If you are still having problems check out the Skipped Stitch Troubleshooting Guide for Knits & Stretch Fabrics